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Mael Beach


JAStewart
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It's been a good westerly swell for several days, the break will typically run faster and harder, and ultimately further (if it can) with each additional day. Whether or not the actual height or the water surface is higher overall, it can often be raised coastally due to it being forced upwards by the coast and rapidly shallowing depth, so as to dissipate the additional energy it is carrying compared to normal.

 

The effect is multiplied during most of the time the flood is running, as the energy of the wind and tide are combined.

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