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Driveway tarring?


banzai
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Guest Anonymous

most driveways dont need much more as a couple a layers of surface dressing and as far as i know the council only take a reasonable rate , much more cost effective as 3" tar

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You can do most of the prep yourself.

 

You need to work out the weight of the vehicle going on it..

 

But, it is always best to go over.

 

The top layer for looks can be 5 mm, but 10mm stone will be ok and 8 cm thick.

 

The base, a layer of course tarmac needs to be 10 cm.

 

20 mm stone for bed 30 cm deep

 

And some hard core below that, it will not go any where.

 

The secret is to bed it properly.

 

When they come they need to use a trench wacker for all but top.

 

Otherwise you Will get sag in the future.

 

Ensure they seal the edges of the topping, initially a binding spray on all surfaces the tarmac will come in contact with, a tar emulsion on the bed and a final spray of sealer..

 

If you can afford the council to do it than you will always have some comeback, and a few brews and biscuits will always ensure a little extra.

 

See if you can work with them, it is a skilled job. You can always learn a few tips

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Guest Anonymous
You can do most of the prep yourself.

 

You need to work out the weight of the vehicle going on it..

 

But, it is always best to go over.

 

The top layer for looks can be 5 mm, but 10mm stone will be ok and 8 cm thick.

 

The base, a layer of course tarmac needs to be 10 cm.

 

20 mm stone for bed 30 cm deep

 

And some hard core below that, it will not go any where.

 

The secret is to bed it properly.

 

When they come they need to use a trench wacker for all but top.

 

Otherwise you Will get sag in the future.

 

Ensure they seal the edges of the topping, initially a binding spray on all surfaces the tarmac will come in contact with, a tar emulsion on the bed and a final spray of sealer..

 

If you can afford the council to do it than you will always have some comeback, and a few brews and biscuits will always ensure a little extra.

 

See if you can work with them, it is a skilled job. You can always learn a few tips

 

:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :roll:

n thats wi nearly 30 years in construction :shock: :shock: driveway :cry: :? :? :?

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Depends what you're looking for, but....

 

You could do what the county did with several side roads around our way around 25 years ago. They were supposed to be taking over responsibility for them and upgrading them - all they did was send in the surface dressing squad when they were in the area anyway, on with the tar over the hardcore like spreading treacle, pour on the dry chips, a quick roll, and they were gone.

 

They're all mostly still "okay" 25 years later. I doubt you'll find a cheaper way. Of course, if you want the Blaw Knox and a few inches deep of the good stuff, best think about a second mortgage. :?

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You can do most of the prep yourself.

 

You need to work out the weight of the vehicle going on it..

 

But, it is always best to go over.

 

The top layer for looks can be 5 mm, but 10mm stone will be ok and 8 cm thick.

 

The base, a layer of course tarmac needs to be 10 cm.

 

20 mm stone for bed 30 cm deep

 

And some hard core below that, it will not go any where.

 

The secret is to bed it properly.

 

When they come they need to use a trench wacker for all but top.

 

Otherwise you Will get sag in the future.

 

Ensure they seal the edges of the topping, initially a binding spray on all surfaces the tarmac will come in contact with, a tar emulsion on the bed and a final spray of sealer..

 

If you can afford the council to do it than you will always have some comeback, and a few brews and biscuits will always ensure a little extra.

 

See if you can work with them, it is a skilled job. You can always learn a few tips

 

:shock: :shock: How many million standard axles have you designed this driveway to take :? :?

180mm of bitmac.......that's very close to what's specified for the A970 !

300mm sub-base.....that's double what's on A970 !

Personally, I think 2 layer tar spray and chips is the best value for money. But it does depend on the location.

 

I totally agree with you though that the bed (sub-base) must be done properly. That is the key.

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I can't help thinking that shetlandpeat's advice seems to be an example of "a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing," or in this case an expensive mistake. There is more to being a road design expert than just having watched people. It would be interesting to know if there have been any actual roads or other surfacings built to his designs. I expect not.

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Tarmacadam/Bitmac

 

Bitmac Driveway

Excavate to reduced depth of at least 200mm below finished level (350mm below dpc) and cart all spoil to licensed, off-site tip.

Excavate any soft spots in sub-grade as required and dispose.

Supply, lay and compact minimum of 100mm of DTp1 crushed stone sub-base material to falls and levels.

Supply, lay and compact 50mm of 20mm dense binder course bitmac, and 25mm of 6mm hardstone bitmac surface course to falls and levels.

Clear all site of debris and rubble on completion and make good.

All Tarmac to comply with BS 4987

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How long is a driveway??

 

http://www.texas-flyer.com/LightFlyer/longdriveway.jpg

 

Constructing a road?

 

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/c/c2/PavementStratum.JPG/450px-PavementStratum.JPG

 

I do dabble in reinstating road trenches and pavements in my job roll, as my post indicated, get an expert who can look at the specific job...

 

But I have noticed cars seem to weigh even more nowadays as you seem to need 4x4s to get the kids to school and so on..

 

It is not really a serious attempt at getting someone to go over the top, but I have repaired plenty that did not...

 

ps.. I was born before 1971, so metric is not my strong point...lol

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